Directions

1. For the tangzhong: Place the water and starch in a microwave-safe bowl and whisk to combine. Cover loosely and microwave in 30 second intervals until thickened and glossy, 1 to 2 minutes, whisking regularly. Uncover and allow to cool for 15 minutes.

2. For the dough: Add the remaining milk, sugar, and yeast to the bowl with the tangzhong and whisk until uniform. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add the flour and cardamom, and mix on low speed until the dough just comes together and no dry flour remains, 2 to 5 minutes. Cover loosely and let sit for 20 minutes.

3. Add the salt to the bowl and mix on medium speed for 4 minutes. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until the butter is incorporated and the dough is silky and starts to clear the sides of the bowl (it will remain webby and sticky), 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Desired Dough Temperature: 75˚F.

5. Transfer the dough to a medium bowl, cover, and let sit at 75˚F until about doubled in volume, 90 to 120 minutes, folding the dough with lightly-moistened hands at 45 and 90 minutes.

6. (If desired, once the dough has about doubled in volume, it may be covered tightly and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Remove the dough from the fridge an hour or so before shaping the buns to warm it slightly. The buns will take about 90 to 120 minutes to proof in step 11 if shaped when the dough is cold.)

7. For the filling: Place softened butter, pumpkin spice, cardamom, sugar, and salt in a small bowl and stir with a spatula until a smooth paste forms. Cover and set aside.

8. For the buns: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer the dough to a lightly-floured counter. Flour the top of the dough and roll it into a 16- by 12-inch rectangle, with its longer side facing you. Using an offset spatula, spread the filling evenly over the lower two-thirds of the dough. Fold the uncovered third over the center third, then fold the remaining third over the center strip.

9. For braided knots: Using a floured bench scraper or a pizza wheel, cut the dough into quarters crosswise, and then cut quarter into thirds crosswise. Cut each strip lengthwise into three equal strips, leaving them connected at one end by about 1/2-inch. Braid the strips and then pinch them together at the end. Flip the braid over and then, starting with the unbraided end, roll it into a ball and then gently press the bundle together to seal it. Transfer the ball to the prepared pan, seam side down. Repeat with the remaining strips of dough, spacing them evenly apart on the pan.

10. For twists: Using a floured bench scraper or a pizza wheel, cut the dough into half crosswise. Cut each half into 6 strips lengthwise. Loosely hold the end of one strip between your thumb and first three fingers of your non-dominant hand and then gently stretch the cord while wrapping it loosely around your fingers. When you get down to the last 3 inches or so, remove the bundle from around your fingers, wrap the remaining cord crosswise around the bundle and then push the end through the core of the bundle to hold it in place. Transfer the bundle to the prepared pan, seam side down. Repeat with the remaining strips of dough, spacing them evenly apart on the pan.

11. Cover the buns loosely and allow to proof until about doubled in size, 60 to 90 minutes.

12. Thirty minutes before buns are doubled in volume, set an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 325˚F.

13. Brush the buns evenly with the the egg wash and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of pearl sugar per bun.

14. Bake the buns until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating the pan after 15 minutes.

15. Allow the buns to cool for at least 20 minutes before serving. They will keep for a few days in a closed container but are best served fresh.